The greatest seaside escapes
are usually the ones that nobody else knows about: the ones down the mile-long
sandy trail, the ones at the bottom of the rickety steps, the ones you have to
inflate a dinghy and paddle to.
But even the most well-known
places can feel intimate if you time it right. Plan a trip to one of these
European seaside escapes in September or October (when the weather is still
good and the crowds dwindle) and you'll see just why we love them.
1. Cinque Terre, Italy:
Rooted in antiquity, Cinque Terre's five towns date from the early medieval
period and barely anything about these five crazily constructed Ligurian
villages has changed in over three centuries. Buildings aside, Cinque Terre's
most unique historical feature is the steeply terraced cliffs bisected by a complicated
system of fields and gardens that has been shaped over the course of nearly two
millennia. The most accessible village by car and the only Cinque Terre
settlement to sport a tourist beach is Monterosso, which is the furthest west
and least quintessential of the quintet (it was briefly ditched from the group
in the 1940s). Guarding the only secure landing point on the Cinque Terre
coast, Vernazza is the quaintest of the five villages. Its tiny harbour is
framed by the Chiesa di Santa Margherita, while the ruins of an 11th-century
castle look out to sea.
2. Santorini, Greece:
Even the most jaded traveler succumbs to the spectacle of Santorini's surreal
landscape and dramatic sunsets. The startling sight of the submerged caldera,
almost encircled by sheer lava-layered cliffs and topped by a dusting of towns,
should not be missed. The village of Oia on the northern tip of the island
offers excellent, unobstructed sunset viewing and the east side of the island
has black-sand beaches at popular resorts such as Kamari and Perissa.
3. San Sebastian, Spain:
The coast road from Bilbao to San Sebastián is a glorious journey past
spectacular seascapes, with cove after cove stretching east and verdant fields
suddenly ending where cliffs plunge into the sea. Casas rurales (village or farmstead
accommodation) and camping grounds are plentiful and well signposted. The tiny
hamlet of Elantxobe, with its colourful houses clasping to an almost sheer
cliff face, is undeniably one of the most attractive spots along the entire
coast. It's impossible to lay eyes on San Sebastián and not fall madly in love.
For its setting, form and attitude, Playa de la Concha is the equal of any city
beach in Europe.
4. Corsica, France:
Crowned by saw tooth peaks, mantled in forest cloaks of green oak, chestnut and
pine, and shot through with rushing rivers and tumbling cascades, Corsica is
one of the most dramatic, diverse and downright gorgeous islands in the
Mediterranean. Fine stretches of sand can be found at Spérone and around the
Golfe de Sant'Amanza. Best of all is the horseshoe bay of Rondinara and
tree-fringed Palombaggia, which you'll see gracing postcards all over Corsica.
You couldn't leave without exploring the waters around Bonifacio - thought by
some scholars to have featured in Homer's Odyssey. The largest (and most
visited) island of the group, île Lavezzi is known for its natural pools,
deserted beaches and swimming holes.
5. Kvarner Gulf, Croatia:
Protected by soaring mountains, covered with luxuriant forests, lined with
beaches and dotted with islands, the Kvarner Gulf is home to four of our top
Croatian beaches. At the southern end of Krk Island, Ba&353;ka has the
island's most beautiful beach, a 2km-long crescent set below a dramatic, barren
range of mountains. Cres Island is home to beaches and crystal-clear coves at
Lubenice, accessible by a steep path through the underbrush, and Beli. Finally,
Paradise Beach on Rab Island is a sandy stunner with shallow waters and the
shade of pine trees.
6. Amalfi Coast, Italy:
Stretching about 50km along the southern side of the Sorrentine Peninsula, the
Amalfi is one of Europe's most breathtaking. Cliffs terraced with scented lemon
groves sheer down into sparkling seas; sherbet-hued villas cling precariously
to unforgiving slopes while sea and sky merge in one vast blue horizon. The
pearl in the pack, Positano is the coast's most photogenic and expensive town.
An early visitor, John Steinbeck wrote in 1953: 'Positano bites deep. It is a
dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly
real after you have gone.' More than 50 years on, his words still ring true.
7. CÔte d'Azur, France:
With its glistening seas and charming, tangled old-town streets foreigners have
admired the CÔte d'Azur for centuries. Also known as the French Riviera due to
a string of influential sojourners from Queen Victoria to F. Scott Fitzgerald
this lustrous stretch of shoreline is still attractive to those seeking mild
winters and hedonistic lifestyles. But away from the spotlight of Cannes and
St-Tropez, the coastal roads between Nice and Monaco offer some of the most
spectacular scenery. The terracotta-roofed fishing port of Villefranche-Sur-Mer
was a favourite with Jean Cocteau, who painted the frescoes in the 17th-century
Chapelle St-Pierre. Steps split the steep cobblestone streets that weave
through the old town. Beyond the port is a sandy beach offering picture-perfect
views of the town.
8. Menorca, Spain: Menorca is the least
overrun and most tranquil of the Balearics. The untouched beaches, coves and
ravines around its coastline allow the more adventurous the occasional sense of
discovery! The north coast is rugged and rocky, dotted with small and scenic
coves. It's less developed than the south and, with your own transport and a bit
of legwork you'll discover some of the Balearics' best off-the-beaten-track
beaches. Platja Cavalleria is a fabulous double-crescent, golden beach.
9. Curonian Spit, Lithuania:
This 98km lick of sand is a wondrous mixture of dunes (some as high as 200m)
and forest - the smell of pine will impart an otherworldly quality to your
hammock time. Wilhelm von Humboldt believed that a trip to the Curonian Spit
was essential nourishment for the soul, and Thomas Mann was also drawn to this
timeless wonderland. It's said that around 14 villages are buried under the
endless, shifting dunes, making the Spit a kind of Baltic Sahara. The towering
52m 'Great Dune' is in Nida; to get there take the ferry from Klaipeda to
Neringa (costs around €10 per car), then drive or cycle 50km.
10. England's Victorian seaside towns:
While England's weather can't compete with the Mediterranean there are two
great seaside escapes just over an hour from London that can. An hour's train
ride east of London is the Victorian seaside town of Broadstairs. Charles Dickens wrote
a few of his books in the cliff-top house overlooking Viking Bay. Grab an
ice-cream at Morelli's and wander down the broad stairs to the beach. An hour's
train ride south of London is Brighton, the most vibrant seaside resort in
England. Brighton
has embraced the outlandish ever since the Prince Regent built his party palace
here in the 19th century.
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